Barbarian days : a surfing life af William Finnegan (Bog)

A Surfing Life Summary: Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses -- off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu even while his closest friend was a native Hawaiian surfer. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly -- he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui -- is served up with rueful humor. He and a buddy, their knapsacks crammed with reef charts, bushwhack through Polynesia. They discover, while camping on an uninhabited island in Fiji, one of the world's greatest waves. As Finnegan's travels take him ever farther afield, he becomes an improbable anthropologist: unpicking the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissecting the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, navigating the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs Titel: Barbarian days : a surfing life Forfatter: William Finnegan Forlag: Corsair Udgivelsesår: 2015 Sider: 499 Sprog: Engelsk Klik på 'Se annoncen hos forhandleren' for at se varen i vores webshop Brand: Ukendt Farve: Ukendt Stand: 60 - Mindre spor fra almindeligt brugt. (Se billeder) Vi sender til hele landet for 45 kr. Leveringstiden er 1-3 hverdage. Du kan også gratis hente den på vores lager på Industrivej 10 i Slangerup. Er du i tvivl om varen stadig er til salg? Klik på knappen "Se annoncen hos forhandleren" for at se den i vores webshop. Kan du se den der, er den stadig til salg Orderly er en ny måde at købe brugt på. Vi har alle vores sælgeres ting på vores centrale lager. Derfor kan du være helt sikker på at få dine ting - og du kan samle flere ting på tværs af sælgere og kun betale én gang fragt.

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